Eyewear buyers point to plastics, soft rectangles, and continued strength of rimless

By Christine Brophy
Associate Editor

NEW YORK--From leather and wood temples to laser engraved “lens tattoos,” today’s eyewear trends are all about the eye-catching details.

What’s popular now? Crystals, cutouts and laser engravings are prominent this year, say retailers. Colors, especially purples, and two-tone plastics are playing a significant role with the usual basics like blacks, browns and tortoise.

While the visual elements are enticing, technology also carries weight: memory metals, screw-less hinges, spring hinges, lightweight plastic and metal frames like titanium are a top priority for some retailers this year. In addition, unisex styles of the past have given way to masculine men’s styles and feminine, pretty women’s styles.

Even though each optical retailer may cater to a customer base with a different demographic, some things are evident across the board, frame buyers and retailers report to Vision Monday.  For example, customers are spending money for brand names, comfort and for the functional aspects of the eyewear.

In part, retailers say this is due to an economic turnaround. It’s also partly due to the customer’s priorities towards value and brands.

Other highlights of what leading optical dispensers are observing: teens and young adults are label hungry; women love treating eyewear like an accessory; men are moving into plastics; and boomers are embracing more youthful styles.

In this special report, retailers around the country divulge what trends are hot in eyewear right now and what they and their customers are focusing on for the 2006.

Color Palette
Eyecare professionals say that deep rich colors are selling strong in ophthalmic styles this year including blues, greens and reds, and earth tones like orangey-brown, as well as tortoise, rich horns, black and brown. Some customers are playing it safe this year, sticking with black, which for some is the “new black.”

Stephen Franklin, chief operating officer at Accurate Optical Co., Inc., in Salisbury, Md., admits that his customers buy more black than any other color, especially his teenage customers. Other retailers note that teens and kids seem to be following the same color palette as adults this year, though pink is still popular with teen girls and chrome and silver for boys. 

One color that stands out from the crowd is purple. Several retailers said that different shades of purple were very strong, especially plum. Black and white plastics as well as neutrals such as camel are also doing well, as expected. For men, gun metals and different shades of brown are very popular

“Wearable colors such as wine red, plum purple, and teal blues that have warm hues or cool tones,” are popular right now, says Gretchen Oldt, associate vice president, corporate merchandising, Empire Vision Centers, Inc. For men, silver and gold frames are still popular, said Oldt. But, over the last nine to 15 months, she has noticed that more men are choosing midnight blues, browns, olive greens, gunmetal and matte gun metal.

Michael Minadeo, senior director for ophthalmic and sun frames at Luxottica Retail, says that men are choosing updated plastics in traditional black and brown with color accents on the inside of the frame. “The plastic/metal combination is also popular for men both with contrasting neutral or fashion colored temples such as red,” said Minadeo.

What’s more, innovations in frame materials and manufacturing have allowed for more creative color combinations in plastics for men and women. Double and triple laminates are enhancing frames with layers of luscious color.

ECPs have also noticed that some customers are choosing frame colors for a different reason than the seasonal color trends; for most customers, eyewear choices are driven by finding the right color to accessorize an outfit.

Tempting Temples
Thicker temples, jewelry-like embellishments, wide-tapered multi-colored temples and temples using lightweight frame materials are influencing sales and retail buying decisions this year, buyers say. Temple crystals and stones are huge right now, satisfying the need customers have for “bling.”

Even though frames dazzle with incredible details, all embellishments are not over the top. Embellishments are considered “wearable, elegant, updated and fresh.” Besides baubles and crystals, temple cut outs and laser engravings are evident in many collections. What’s more, temple details aren’t just showing up in women’s collections. Even men have a lot to look forward to this year. Leather and wood temples are rising in popularity and sales.

For some though, the technological features are driving sales. Oldt says that Empire Vision Centers are heavily focusing on memory metal and technology categories such as the V-Lock system patented by Viva, which has no screw for the hinge. Lightweight metals and spring hinges are also desirable because they enhance comfort. Durable materials such as titanium add value for the customer while also satisfying some men’s need for a minimalist look.

Plastics are also becoming more mainstream for men in both simi-rimless and rimless styles, said Robin Genden, owner of Bayview Optometrics in Mashpee, Mass.

Weighing the Options
When customers choose glasses, one thing they definitely consider is comfort. Bulky and heavy glasses are hard to go back to for some customers who’ve experimented with rimless or titanium styles, said Mello Thompson, marketing director at Image Optical in Nashville, Tenn. To cater to her customers’ needs, she tries to buy frames that are as light as possible or around 2.5 grams. She will look for lightweight frames in every style, from plastics to titanium. “After buying one pair of lightweight frames, people tend to buy more,” said Thompson. But, “not every frame is lightweight,” she added, “so it is a challenge.”

Lenses and Frame Fronts
Lenses are also advancing in unexpected ways. Customers are buying more laser-engraved lenses, also called lens tattoos. “The trend just started and people want it,” says Thompson. Just like a tattoo can add art to the body, customers can now decorate and personalize their glasses with customized laser engravings.

Technologically, lenses are advancing every day too. Progressives are giving boomers additional options while boosting retail sales. “Technology in the last three months has changed dramatically. [Optical retailers] need to know about the lenses. It is a reason to buy the glasses. Study up on them and know what is out there,” says Thompson.

Another trend retailers note is that the ophthalmic eye shapes are getting bigger and bigger in softer rounds and rectangular square shapes.

Oldt says that the deeper B (or vertical) measurement of ophthalmic lenses is expanding, but not as large as the sunglasses. She notes the gradual rise of ophthalmic lens measurements to 32 to 36 B compared with previous measurements of 26 to 28 B ophthalmic.

“Non-prescription wraparound fronts are also huge,” says Genden of Bayview Optometrics. She says that she is planning to buy more sunwear wrap styles this year.

Eyeshapes
In terms of eyeshape, butterfly and geometric shapes are ruling, as well as sharp and soft angle rectangles. With sunglasses, it is less about the eyeshape and more about the size, which is big, big, big!  And, while not an emerging trend, some of the colored lens tints are still doing well, retailers say.

Rimless styles are selling strong - partly for their light weight and partly for the minimalist look it creates. It was also noted that kids--wanting to mimic younger adults--are embracing semi-rimless styles. “Now that semi-rimless and rectangle shapes are available in junior sizes, we’re starting to sell more of those styles to older kids,” says Luxottica Retail’s Minadeo.

Consumer Spending
This year, retailers across the board were pleased to announce that customers are spending more on their frames. Depending on the demographic, styles were ranging from $125 to $600 for frames alone.

“Patients are spending more money today than in recent months. The economy seems to be rebounding nicely, and that has helped patients return to the marketplace,” says Franklin of Accurate Optical. Franklin added that people are willing to pay a little more for a frame if they also get exceptional customer service. Accurate Optical stores also provide an unconditional warranty for almost all of the frames they sell, which adds on value too.

Genden’s Cape Cod Bayview Optometrics store draws a mix of customers from businessmen to artists who are also dropping good money on specs. “They are putting very expensive lenses into these frames and want a pair of glasses that reflects that,” says Genden. Customers typically spend $400 for frames (not including the prescription). Her lowest Rx sale is $250 to $300. But, some customers spend upwards of $500 or higher.

Customers are also buying multiple pairs of eyewear at one time or buying contact lenses to go with their eyewear purchase. This can include an accessory reader, glasses for day wear, glasses for night wear, and even just a fun pair.  Matching eyeglasses to meet different lifestyle needs was a recurrent theme with these retailers. 

One group of customers that retailers are catering to more is boomers. “Money follows the boomers,” said Thompson. “As long as they don’t have kids in college, they have a lot of money to spend on eyewear.”

Brand Appeal 
Retailers are mixed in their views about whether or not customers stick to a certain brand or manufacturer or if they tend to move around. Some retailers find that customers choose the brand that is the hottest that moment. Other say that the particular style of the frame is the deciding factor. Many retailers agree though that regardless of the brand, frame fit, comfort and style are usually top deciding factors for shoppers.

“If they feel like they look good, they will buy it,” said Helene Goldschmidt, owner, Frame Up Eyewear in Snyder, N.Y. “People look at you every day and the first thing they see is your glasses.” She added, “I don’t feel that people buy for price at all. We carry all high-end glasses and customers are not afraid to spend the money.”

Retailers hint that logos and other embellishments --while still evident -- are not as bold as in previous years. Men, however, tend to be a little more discrete. One retailer, Valerie Vittu, owner of Margot Camille Optique in Philadelphia, notes that her clientele (which is 70 percent male), prefer discreet or undetectable logos in expensive brands.  For men, she notes, ophthalmic styles from lines like Alain Mikli or Mykita are doing well.

In sunwear, Vittu sees the reverse trend -- logos are prominent.

For kids and young adults between 15 and 25, brand names are especially popular because it is a way for them to incorporate a brand into their wardrobe that they can’t afford yet in apparel.

For this same reason, designer frames also have a mass appeal. “For a style-driven customer, eyewear is one of the least expensive designer items they can add to their accessories,” said Minadeo.

However, “The label has to have the right price and value to it for the consumer to be attracted to it,” says Oldt of Empire Vision Centers. If it’s the right brand with the right style and the right embellishments, they don’t mind spending the money, she adds.

The Future of Frames
Getting customers to think differently about their eyewear is also helping retailers move more pairs. Thinking beyond function is one primary goal.

“Ophthalmic frames are going to be the fashion accessory of tomorrow,” said Vittu. She also said that she has even seen this trend in boomers (who don’t want glasses that add age), as well as a growing style awareness among men. Men have bought plano ophthalmic frames (including doctors and lawyers) to pair with a good suit for a job interview or to shape their professional appearance, acknowledged Vittu.

“We are happy to see customers shop for style and brands. We want to see the entire eyewear category grow as people embrace eyewear as an accessory,” says Minadeo of Luxottica Retail.

Buy the looks of it, it’s all ready happening. It’s clear to see that frames are not just a necessity for those visually challenged. Ophthalmic frames are emerging as a trendy and versatile accessory option for all men and women of all ages. Just like shoes, customers of the future will have several pairs to meet an occasion, enhance an outfit or freshen up an old look.