Innovation and evolution are the foundations of the Theory brand. In March 2005, Theory named Istvan Francer women’s design director, and in 2006 gave responsibilities for the men’s and accessories lines to him as well, a natural choice considering that evolution and innovation seem to have been the guiding principles in Francer’s own career.
Born in Yugoslavia, he came to the U.S. in 1986 to study at Parsons School of Design. Shortly thereafter he met Donna Karan, and began a decade-long tenure as design director for Donna Karan Men’s and Women’s collections. In 2000, he served as creative director for the Cerrutti parent company in Milan, while starting his own eponymous label, but left in 2004, to return to the U.S. and his position at Donna Karan Men’s.
His first women’s collection for Theory hit in Spring 2006 and in 2007 he collaborated with L’Amy America to create the company’s first line of eyewear, also the company’s first licensed category. F.Y.Eye sat down with the designer to get his take on these company firsts in the world of fashion and design.
1. What are the most important influences on your design work?
I am greatly influenced by the arts and my environment; art, architecture, drawing, the energy of the streets, sculpture. In terms of eyewear, I was particularly influenced by the concept and style of Spanish architect, Santiago Calatrava and Japanese architect, Tadao Ondo.
2. What excites you most about design?
I love the idea that each opportunity to design presents a unique chance to re-create and re-imagine that which may already exist and make it completely new and relevant. It is about coming up with solutions. In terms of fashion, the process is an exploration in both function and style.
3. Describe the ultimate Theory man and woman.
Someone who understands design itself and knows how to use it to create his or her own style. Intelligence is key, as is confidence. They are leaders, trend setters, rule breakers. They are sophisticated and have their own sense of style.
4. What’s been the greatest challenge in interpreting the Theory design philosophy into an eyewear line?
Theory’s founding philosophy stresses fit and fabric quality, so the challenge was to translate that from cloth o the materials of the eyewear. The goal was to emphasize silhouette and to keep the design subtle, using great silhouette, modern fabrications, and a touch of glamour.
5. What are some of your favorite pieces or characteristics of the eyewear collections?
I love the big oversized glasses, the aviators, the colorations, the proportions, the plastic and metal combinations.
6. What is the best advice anyone ever gave you?
Be yourself. ■
