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Approved for Ohio Credit by the Ohio Optical Dispensers Board

Transforming the Need of Better Vision to The Want of Style and Fashion

By Barry Santini, ABOM

Release Date: September 2007 Expiration Date: September 30, 2010

Learning Objectives:
Upon completion, participants will be able to:

  1. Learn the difference between want and need of new eyewear.
  2. Understand methods to change eyewear from a need based item to one that is more fashionable.
  3. Learn how to make shopping for eyewear exciting for patients.

Faculty/Editorial Board: 
Barry SantiniBarry Santini graduated from New York Technical College in 1975 with an AAS in Ophthalmic Dispensing. He is a New York State licensed optician with contact lens certification, is ABO Certified and was awarded an ABO Master in 1994. As sales manager for Tele Vue Optics from 1987 to 2003, Santini developed his knowledge of precisio optics and has been an owner of Long Island Opticians in Seaford N.Y. from 1996 to present. In addition, Santini is an amateur astronomer and lecturer and plays bass trombone in the Brooklyn Symphony.


Credit Statement:

This course is approved for one (1) hour of CE credit by the American Board of Opticianry (ABO). Course #: STWJM1021-2. Please check with your state licensing board to see if this approval counts toward your CE requirement for relicensure.

Luxottica Group
This course is supported by an unrestricted educational grant from Luxottica Group.

Profile 1Purchasing eyeglasses is often considered a daunting task. It's usually connected to an exam and requires making an appointment. Traditionally, the doctor, in obtaining the prescription, determines whether a new pair is needed... or not. Consumers know little about selecting eyeglasses and they think that few styles ever look well on them. When presented with new and novel choices, they'll respond: "I could never wear that color, shape, size, etc." It's no wonder our industry complains that overall eyeglass sales are near flat each year. We need to begin to transform the seeming drudgery of "getting glasses" into the fun of shopping for eyewear.

Are we ready to finally allow eyewear to achieve true fashion status? Approached anew, eyeglasses, as we've known and loved them, are entering an era of radical change; a change that will not only challenge the public's long-held feelings about eyeglasses, but also our own.

THE LEGACY
Today, some of us may believe that eyeglasses are a "fashion" item, but many of our clients do not. They are as comfortable wearing the same eyeglasses daily for two to three years as they are uncomfortable with wearing the same shirt or blouse for two to three days. For them, eyeglasses are a need-based purchase and we reinforce that notion with buying frequencies tied to eye-exam and insurance reimbursement intervals of one to two years.

But consider shopping for shoes or a purse or a man looking for a tie. These are perfect examples of how items that sell for $100 to $300 are bought, often on impulse, simply to change the way one looks. Eyeglasses can and should be the same. To really transform eyeglasses into eyewear, the customer must be in charge of "I want" instead of the ECP controlling it with "you need."

With a history dating back to origins in 13th century Italy, eyeglasses continue today to remain devices of corrective function. For only brief times in 700 years have eyewear enjoyed the attention, design, demand and jewels of the elite. More recently, wearers and professionals alike have viewed them primarily as medical devices… as items of utility. As a result, they've never been something people truly want.

ProfileDoes "John Q. Public" really want eyeglasses? Let's ask him: "If you didn't need eyeglasses, would you buy them?" His answer is very revealing about the public's fundamental attitude toward eyeglasses. Not only has our medically-based approach led them to this belief, we continue today to hold them to it like hostages. People are attracted to both contact lenses and refractive surgery because they promise to help us "throw away our eyeglasses." In large part, this negative-selling concept is very persuasive because we still haven't been willing to reevaluate our need-based prerequisites for eyeglasses, and begin to embark on a want-based approach.

Our odyssey to the land of "I want" starts with challenging literally everything we now think, say and do about eyeglasses. We'll begin by abandoning the term "eyeglasses." Rather, to view them as a truly essential element of our fashion wardrobe, we need to exclusively refer to them as eyewear. Sunglasses, a.k.a. sunwear, are already novice members of the apparel and fashion businesses. And while we intuitively understand the fun, desire and pleasure people have when shopping for themselves, we continue to think of "eyeglasses" strictly in medical terms. Our goal then is to transfer this same excitement to shopping for eyewear. But first we'll have to change our own attitudes about whether prescription eyewear is truly a fashion accessory.

THE PROBLEM: EYEWEAR IS NOT PERCEIVED AS TRUE FASHION
Today, is it really considered fashionable to wear prescription eyewear? Then why is eyewear's sibling, sunwear, considered so essential to every celebrity's wardrobe? Sure, sunwear provides needed eye protection from bright lights, but celebrities also embrace sunwear as the defining accessory for their "money shot"…the close-ups of their face. So just what is it about sunwear that enables it to enjoy easy acceptance as a fashion accessory, while eyewear doesn't have that same cache?

Changing the Perception of Eyewear into the Attraction of Sunwear

The public's perception that prescription eyewear is not a fashion accessory is somewhat founded in humans' natural tendency to categorize objects and experiences in absolute terms, i.e., good/bad, hot/cold, new/old, etc. But this black and white approach lacks the precision, accuracy, subtly and nuance that using shades of gray can provide. Using terms descriptive of degree to more accurately describe natural phenomenon is the essence of a field of mathematical theory called fuzzy logic.

Fuzzy logic uses degree, rather than absolutes, to more precisely model our natural world. Take, for instance, a half-filled glass of water. Using absolute terms, we would describe it as "half full." Yet, ambiguously, it could also be described also as "half empty." Can either "absolute" description be completely correct?

How could fuzzy logic help to more accurately describe some-one's height? Can a person's height be categorized accurately in absolute terms as either tall or short? Let's take a look at Tom's height:

Is Tom Tall?

Tom Tall

In absolute terms exactly at what height is Tom no longer in the class of "tall" people, but a member of the class of "short" people? And if Tom is not, using absolute terms, a "tall" person, can it be accurate to refer to him as "short"?

MAKING EYEWEAR INTO A TRUE FASHION ACCESSORY
Even for your clients who currently enjoy their eyewear and sunwear, what are the main reasons they get frustrated with eyewear and finally succumb to the attraction of contact lenses and refractive surgery? Is it eyewear's fit, appearance or price? Perhaps the reasons are much simpler.

IMPROVE THE CONVENIENCE OF EYEWEAR
After these "big three," convenience remains the number-one consumer unmet expectation in their experience of eyewear ownership. You might have thought price was paramount, but consumers routinely accept and embrace many other categories of expensive fashion accessories, some of which are very costly.

AccessoryFor example, they love shopping for jewelry, watches, shoes and ties, because these items are attached to their person, i.e., they don't need to be "looked after" or "kept track of."

Eyewear, unlike other accessories, is inherently inconvenient. It requires careful handling while being taken on and off, and a separate case for storage. As an unattached item eyewear can illicit feelings of exasperation or disappointment when money has to be spent to replace lost or damaged pairs. And today's larger hard cases, while providing superior protection, for some clients, can require a soft pouch to also manage the eyewear's convenience. These cases emphasize luxury and reaffirm the offer. A new, micro-fiber pouch offers excellent lens protection, while reducing unwanted pocket and pocketbook "bulges."

Beginning with something as simple as a case, begin to recreate the total paradigm of "shopping for eyewear."

BRING SHOPPING EXCITEMENT TO EYEWEAR
Shopping! Now there's a word that practically defines the American consumer. For most of us, shopping is a pleasant experience that we look forward to. Unless that is, we have to shop for something we feel don't really want or need. Then, the dread and procrastination begins. Do you think of purchasing eyewear as a pleasant shopping experience or do people try avoiding it? How many of your clients come in for new eye-wear and remark: "I hate picking out new glasses." What do you currently do to ensure your customer enjoys their eyewear shopping experience? Here are a number of ways to add excitement and make the process memorable.

SHOP ‘WITH' YOUR CLIENTS, NOT ‘FOR' OR ‘AGAINST' THEM
When a client presents their new prescription, you should try to:

  1. Avoid offering conclusions about the amount of Rx change, such as "Whoa, that's quite a change!" or "There's such little change in your new prescription, do you really want to buy new glasses."
  2. Quickly surmise the needed mix of fashion, lens and related eye health issues.
  3. Remark how their insurance reimbursement may be used to get them a better pair of eyewear than they would have otherwise been considering.
  4. Engage them and convey excitement through a sound byte like: "Let's go shopping."
  5. Begin shopping by presenting them with eyewear other than their primary pair. It's generally safe to assume that a client will purchase their primary eyewear. Why not enhance their purchase experience by first presenting choices in sun, sport/casual or dress-styled eyewear?
  6. Avoid leaving your client seated, while you alone make choices for them. When shopping for clothing or accessories, good salespeople always strive to enhance your shopping experience keeping you involved in the selection process. Keep in mind that today, the public is increasingly accustomed to shopping "on their own" in the comfort of their home, directly in front of their home computer. If your sales approach "excludes" people in any significant way from direct participation in their eyewear selection experience, they're apt to turn to the Internet for future frame purchases.

Begin by presenting styles that either have been well received by other clients or have some recognizable celebrity association. Start with an upbeat approach by saying "May I have your permission to help you shop for some exciting new styles in sunwear?" Encourage your clients to walk around or accompany you to try on the latest in fashion and branded styles. Avoid using expressions such as "Let's look for a perfect frame" or "This style will work with everything you wear" because these phrases imply a single, need-only based eyewear choice. And once this single "need" is fulfilled, further shopping may be seen as frivolous. Instead, try suggesting additional styles that would complement their wardrobe, such as casual, sport, work, evening and fun. People respond intuitively to these associations because they are familiar as aspects of their own daily dressing choice. If we all used a need-only based approach when shopping for clothing or accessories, we'd simply stop shopping after buying one outfit, one pair of shoes or one tie, etc. Shopping for clothes would become as boring as… eyewear is today?

Make shopping for eyewear un-intimidating. You bet people find eye-wear shopping intimidating. They often feel their eyewear choices were never great or ideal. Considering how we currently display eyewear and sunwear today, it is no surprise that clients often desire the assistance of a family member or friend to help make them an appropriate selection. An anonymous frame bar does absolutely nothing to improve the public's confidence with their eyewear purchase decision.

Capitalize upon the brand recognition and millions of dollars spent each year by big name fashion houses on advertising and marketing. Grouping branded eyewear together and presenting it under its specific logo creates brand "critical mass." Learn how each brand's logo helps to define and reenforce associations with particular lifestyles or usage. Use this knowledge to help your clients find the sport, dress, casual, work or fun styles they're seeking. To really emphasize and convey a fashion brand's full "DNA", try placing a brand's ophthalmic eyewear near or alongside its sunwear. If space or display logistics won't allow this approach, then at least group or segregate a brand's sunwear (minimum: 12 to 24 SKUs) within your store's sunwear center. For this to be completely successful, it is important to utilize clear, logo-based signage and point-of-purchase posters and materials.

The number of brands carried is also space related. The more total space, the more brands with critical mass can be displayed. Smaller stores will require clever merchandising to convey the depth of the number of brands carried if they cannot be displayed.

Understanding and embracing a brand's characteristic style and look. When designing a brand's presentation in your store, try visiting the brand's "home" store and note the palette of colors, materials, textures and even lighting used therein. If compatible with your store's decor, employ a dedicated display for the "ultimate" in brand presentation.

Ask, Look & Listen — Personally Engaging Your Customer through GIFT

For most shoppers, how they're first greeted and engaged will substantially influence their comfort and receptiveness for getting the best and spending their money. And although a doctor may convey authority respect, their influence in the dispensary can diminish as soon as the client leaves the exam room.

Begin with the use of GIFT:
Greeting, Inquiry, Fashion, and Tone

Greeting: Acknowledge a client as soon as they walk through your door. It's imperative toward getting their attention. The sooner they're greeted, the better their first impression will be. Chain stores and banks have learned this secret well about customer relations. Saying "Hello" does not imply to clients that you're now ready to devote your full attention to them. But avoiding eye contact to avert an inconvenient engagement is very poor public relations. You may not get the opportunity to make the next interactive step, making an…

Inquiry: Asking how you may help people is a well-accepted overture today. In fact, not asking is tantamount to indirectly saying that you're really not interested in them. Sure, some customers will respond that they do not want any help. The use of short "sound-bytes" can be a terrific way to "break the ice" and to introduce new and novel styles. For instance, asking them "Would you like to try-on a $25 million dollar sunglass?" allows you to tell how expensive NASA technology has been spun off into each and every REVO brand sunglass. Note their reactions, to gauge whether your points are resonating with them. After they seem relaxed, the opportunity is ripe to comment on their…

Fashion: People like when others notice what type of apparel and accessories they're wearing. If they have on a name-brand bag or watch, recognize and comment about it and ask if they might like to see what's new from that brand's latest styles. Knowing where, when and what to comment upon is an important conversational skill, which is greatly influenced through the use of your…

Tone: Your speaking tone helps to convey sincerity. This is both a natural gift and a learned skill. Avoid superficial or repetitive responses when answering your customer's questions. Nothing sets the stage for deeper, more interpersonal communication than your speaking tone and cadence. Client trust is often quickly won (or lost) through this skill.

Keeping sunwear in its "branded" area can help clients more completely understand what lifestyle category they represent. An area where sufficient sunwear styles are grouped together is necessary for consumers to recognize your office as a serious point-of-sale for both plano and prescription sunwear.

And just as important in reducing intimidation in eyewear purchasing is deciding what you won't display. Choose the appropriate number of brands that are suitable to your space requirements. And don't be afraid to go deep with SKUs in each brand. Try to avoid any unorganized display of unbranded or generic frame styles, as these can confuse clients and diminish the effectiveness of your brand groupings.

When it's time for the lens selection process, it's tempting to put on a "full-court" display of your knowledge of optics and lens designs. In a word, don't, as nothing is more intimidating to lay people than optical concepts. Only by blending your mastery of technical "hard skills" (optics, fit and fabrication) together with today's "soft skills" (fashion and trend awareness, fashion vocabulary, salesmanship) will you ensure that your clients are ultimately happy and satisfied with their eyewear shopping and ownership experience. When a client asks, "Can I have my prescription put into a "wrap around frame style," respond with "Yes. Today, we have lens technology that perfectly complements the latest fashion styles." Your goal is establishing and maintaining your client's trust. And nothing says trust more than a customer who becomes a repeat client.

Make price less important. Price often seems to be the paramount concern. But this is only because we've subconsciously communicated to them the idea that "we're sorry you need to wear eyeglasses." We're constantly trying to either save them money, reduce the number of pairs they need (our infatuation with clip-ons is notorious in this regard) or help them to get rid of their eyewear through refractive surgery. Underlying all the testimonials and advertising for refractive surgery is the message "Get rid of those (unwanted) glasses!" Other eyewear ads trumpet: "Why pay more than you should for eyeglasses?" This is negative selling and it's no wonder why much of the public's focus on eyewear is centered on price: We never stop apologizing for needing eyewear in the first place.

When closing an eyewear sale, don't offer discounts or coupons if you fear the total price is getting too high, i.e., "don't sell from your wallet." Your client will tell you soon enough when they want to stop their eyewear shopping.

The frequency and dollar allowance of insurance reimbursements serve to re-enforce the idea that people should only purchase eyewear when they get an eye exam or that eyewear's true value is equal to what's allotted by their medical or vision plan. If you and your staff present the concept that insurance coverage may be used as a "down-payment" toward purchasing a desirable, fashion-branded pair of eyewear, you'll be surprised how many clients will be interested in your proposal. Where else can the entrée point to a fashion brand come partially paid for?

Make fashion trends important. Younger people are driven by and completely embrace fashion brands for all their purchases. Emphasizing current trends in eyewear through pride-of-placement for the latest styles and hot items will go a long way to capturing this generation as your future customer base.

In addition, eyewear serves as the entry accessory where clients can learn about fashion trends. There is great value in the cost of these in comparison to clothing or other accessory items of that brand. Again, emphasize luxury and reaffirm the sale, provide clients with the branded shopping bag supplied by your vendor. A Prada or Bvlgari bag says a lot.

Use the face as the ultimate expression of personal fashion; makeup was amongst the first ways our ancestors found to express themselves in a personal, fashion statement. Piercings then became popular, ebbed and are now increasingly mainstream. The use of the unconventional, such as hairstyles, make-up and eyewear/sunwear has long defined the arrival of a new generation or artistic class. Unconventional styling in sunwear marked both the Beat and Hippy generations, as well as the Age of Aquarius. Simultaneously, expressions such as "four-eyes" and "no one makes passes at a girl who wears glasses" have negatively colored the public's perception of eye-wear. For over 60 years, we've had to put up and live-with the bad connotations these classic expressions have engendered about eye-wear. Yet, there is a silver lining of opportunity in this cloud: "The face is completely virgin territory for the personal expression of fashion through eyewear." Our industry has an enviable and strategic position to exploit the face as a vehicle for personal fashion expression. If every one of us can begin to embrace and believe that eye-wear is truly fashion in its own right, then we have a tremendous opportunity to steer a path away from our 700 year-old legacy of need-based eyewear usage. Our journey begins by making eyewear the ultimate fashion accessory for the most defining feature of every individual…our face!

CONCLUSION
A whole new generation, free of habitual or negative attitudes about eye-wear, is now at our doorstep. If we challenge ourselves to change the way we've been thinking, a prosperous future lies ahead. Stop holding eye-wear hostage to its past. Let us join together and liberate it to finally enjoy the freedom of want. Only then will eyewear be viewed as true fashion.

OLD DOG, NEW TRICKS—A PERSONAL NOTE:
When one has been in a profession for over 30 years, a combination of age, experience and habit often produces responses to new ideas that smack of an old codger's mentality. Although I've have believed that I'm ready to entertain new approaches in dispensing, I was completely unprepared for all the wonderful, stimulating, provocative and immediately useful ideas I was exposed to during my attendance at the first Luxottica Symposium in the spring of 2007. Many of the concepts presented really resonated with me and I found most of them surprisingly easy to implement and benefit from in my own office. Many of the concepts presented in this paper came from speakers and presentations heard during this all day seminar. I would like to point out Harvey Helm, Luxottica's director of training and development, who deserves special mention as the person most directly responsible for the concept that "shopping for eyewear" can be as exciting and rewarding as any other apparel or accessory shopping. ■